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SMALLHOLDER CLUB UPDATE - SUMMER 2007

 POULTRY 

CARING FOR CHICKENS – LOOKING AHEAD TO WINTER

With summer here the last thing on our minds is the cold winter months ahead, however there is no better time than now to carry out achickensny repairs and prepare your poultry’s living quarters for winter.

The poultry house and run if used should be checked for wear and tear, it is especially important to check that there are no gaps that a hungry fox or vermin could squeeze through and the roof should be inspected to make sure that it is waterproof. It is best to avoid using felt on the roof as this provides the ideal environment for red mite to live and breed, a modern material such as Onduline is light and warm and will help to reduce condensation. Wood should be treated to prolong its life, however it should be checked to make sure that it is safe for birds.

Ideally the poultry house should be cleaned out weekly and the litter replaced, but it is a good idea to give it a thorough clean out and disinfect it once a month if possible to avoid the build up of bacteria which could be harmful to poultry and also to eliminate viruses that can pose a threat to health. The poultry house, perches and nest boxes should be given a regular dusting of powder to control any lice or mite infestation and of course the birds themselves should be treated at the same time. The ideal type of litter to use is wood shavings, but care needs to be taken that these have come from non-treated wood. Straw can be used as an alternative but it must be fresh and clean, straw also has the advantage that it is cheaper than wood shavings! Hay should not be used as this tends to harbour mould spores which can lead to breathing problems.

If your hens tend to be kept on the same patch of ground it is worth rotating where they are kept to avoid a build up of parasites on the ground and ultimately a build up in your birds, however it is still important to worm your birds regularly.

Although feeding and watering equipment should be cleaned on a regular basis now is a good time to check that is in good order and any repairs or replacements can be carried out.


Water BuffaloSomething a little different … 

... Water Buffalo

Several herds of Water Buffalo are now inhabiting the British countryside, thousands of miles from their natural homes across Asia.

Water Buffalo can live up to 20 years, and females have a gestation period of 10 months compared to 9 months for cows. They are generally very placid, friendly and curious creatures, who are often quieter and more easy to handle than cows, in fact they have been used by man for milk, meat and transport for longer than cows.

Water Buffalo milk is very rich and creamy (typically 8.5% butterfat, 4.% protein) and makes wonderful cheese and cream.

 

 

 


FEEDING LAYING DUCKS

DuckJust like poultry, ducks that are being kept for their eggs require a balanced diet with adequate vitamins and minerals to lay good quality eggs.

A protein content of about 16% is ideal for most laying ducks and if they are free ranging they will supplement this with slugs and insects that they find. It is particularly important to choose a feed that does not contain coccidiostats which are found in many poultry feeds as these can be harmful to ducks. Natural Free Range Layers Pellets are coccidiostat free and are made in a drug free mill making them ideal for laying ducks. The quality of the feed is also of great importance, Natural Free Range Layers Pellets are made from high quality, non GM ingredients and are also Vegetarian Society approved which means that no animal by-products such as gelatine coated vitamins are used. It is important to store feed in a cool, dry, vermin proof place as mouldy feed can cause botulism in ducks.

Feed can be given on an ad lib basis, however it is important to regularly clean the feeders out to prevent a build up of old or stale feed. Alternatively your ducks can be fed in the morning once they are let out of their house and again in the evening, placing the feed in a shallow but heavy based feeder helps to avoid wastage. As a rough guide ducks depending on their size will eat 170 – 200g (6 – 7oz)
of food a day.

If you wish to feed your ducks a little mixed corn it is best to do so in the afternoon, as otherwise your ducks will tend to fill up on the corn first and will not eat their layers feed leading to an unbalanced diet and ultimately a drop in egg production and in the health of the bird.

Poultry grit should be made available, although free ranging ducks will tend to find their own. For laying birds it is a good idea to make crushed oyster shell available, which is a good source of calcium to ensure strong shelled eggs.

Ducks enjoy foraging in grass as well as other greens such as chickweed, cabbage, lettuce and brassicas, however just as when feeding mixed corn, it is important to give these greens as treats in the afternoon rather than in place of a nutritionally balanced pellet.

Lastly but by no means least it is vital that your ducks have a supply of clean, fresh water and if possible this should be near to their feeders so that your ducks can drink in between feeding if they wish.


Shetland Cattle Shetland Cattle  - Barry Allen

Early in the nineteenth century nearly every Island crofter had a Shetland cow or two. The cattle were essential to their survival. It has been estimated that there were some 15,000 native cattle on the Islands at that time. Improvements to the subsistence economy of the Islands, and much experimental crossing, had a devastating effect on cattle numbers however. The first volume of the Shetland Cattle Herd Book in 1912 had only 380 pure-bred cows and 39 bulls. The Rare Breeds Survival Trust has this year (2007) raised the status of Shetlands to category 3 (“vulnerable”) – a greatly improved situation compared with the
recent past.

Today there are slightly more calf registrations on the UK mainland than on the Islands and there is no doubt that smallholders in particular are appreciating the qualities of the crofters’ house cow. The Shetland is a dual purpose breed, fine-boned, short legged and deep bodied, weighing between 300 and 500 kg. It has fine, distinctive horns, short but curving inwards and slightly upwards. It can be of any colour but black and white predominates.

This tells little of the main attraction of Shetland cattle however. They are an easy care breed, living out all year on the mainland. As you would expect they are hardy with the ability to convert poor quality grazing into excellent meat, for which there is a niche market, and milk with healthy properties. They do not need concentrates, just hay or silage in winter. Being small cattle they poach the ground farless than other breeds in all but the wettest conditions. They reproduce early and with great ease yet can still be calving at 20 years of age, and they are as docile as one would expect from the original house cow.

For further information contact: Mary Holloway on 01730 895006 - Secretary to the Shetland Cattle Breeders Association

 PIGS

PigOestrus detection to maximise success of AI in sows

Artificial insemination (AI) of farm animals is very common in today's agriculture industry, in the developed world 75% of all dairy cattle inseminations and 85% of all swine inseminations are carried out artificially. AI provides an economical means for livestock farmers to breed their herds with superior males having very desirable traits across many females, which could not normally be achieved cost-effectively through natural matings.

In order to be successful with AI, the correct timing of inseminations is essential and stockpersons must firstly be able to recognise the signs of proestrus and oestrus in sows and gilts to predict when ovulation occurs, thus ensuring that inseminations are carried out at the optimum time. If the sow / gilt is inseminated too early (24 hours before ovulation) or too late (after ovulation), the result will be poorer litter sizes and reduced farrowing rates.

Proestrus (the period just prior to standing for mating) A proestrus female may:

  • Show restless behaviour;
  • Have a swollen and red vulva (more typical in gilts but not consistently in sows);
  • Produce a watery discharge from the vulva;
  • Emit a high-pitched whine;
  • Mount other females but not stand themselves.

Oestrus (the period when the sow is prepared to stand for mating)
An oestrous female may:

  • Have a tacky discharge from the vulva (any swelling / reddening subsides);
  • Stand with tail upright and flicking up and down;
  • Have a poor appetite;
  • Become very vocal;
  • Show "standing reflex";
  • Have glazed eyes;
  • Tremble;
  • Seek contact with the boar;
  • Stand rigid if mounted by other females;
  • Be able to withstand the "back pressure test" in the presence of the boar.

All females will exhibit oestrus in different ways, by a combination of some or all of these signs, a good stockperson will be able to recognise the signals in individual animals.

Oestrus detection should be carried out at least once a day (preferably twice). The sows / gilts should be allowed nose-to-nose contact with a boar which promotes oxytocin release by the sow. The use of the back pressure test and udder / flank stimulation from the stockperson in the presence of the boar will determine when the female is in standing oestrus. The first insemination should take place 12 to 24 hours after the detection of standing oestrus, followed by a second 24 hours later and possibly further inseminations if the sow is still in standing oestrus on the third day.

 GOATS - Dairy Goats

GoatGoats were one of the first animals to be domesticated by humans, with the total world goat population now estimated at around 765 million. Until recently most goats were Dairy breeds but there has been a recent increase in the popularity of specialist breeds such as Cashmere.

Goats are seasonal breeders resulting in seasonal milk production. With between 0.68-1.8kg per 305 day lactation being the usual milk target set by comercial farmers; selection of dairy goats and breeding herds must be accomplished by keeping and maintaining good records and becoming familiar with the different strengths the dairy goat possess.

For those interested in getting involved in raising or showing dairy goats it is an idea to start with two kids of about 3-5 weeks old, with the choice of breed being purely personal. Dairy goats tend to be penned indoors, due to the improved breed of the dairy goat tending not to be so resilient with the same insulating fat layer as other breeds.

Goats are energetic, inquisitive and versatile in their feeding habits making it important for them to have an area of browse materials (trees, leaves, bushes etc); with this seeming to be particularly advantageous to the dairy goat. Good quality hay and a balanced feed appear to be the best approach in high levels of milk production; too much poor quality fibre will lead to lower levels of milk production. Dairy goats tend to be good eaters and can consume 4-7% dry matter per 100lbs of body weight!

The doe should be bred to freshen once a year with a dry period of about 2 months. The dry period will allow the mammary system time to repair and regenerate for the next lactation. The dairy goat should be maintained in good condition during the dry period so she will be in a healthy state with every opportunity to produce more milk in the next lactation.

Feeding Goats - 10 simple rules

  1. Good feeding will only be effective if the rest of the goat herd management is of good quality, including housing, exercise and health care.
  2. Like all ruminants, the most important constituent of a goat’s diet is forage, at least 50% of their daily feed intake should be in the form of good quality grass and hay.
  3. The provision of additional energy, protein, vitamins and minerals in the form of a balanced concentrate ration will be necessary.
  4. Growth, pregnancy, and especially milk production, all require a greater level of nutrition than that required for maintenance alone. The needs of each goat must be matched with the quantity, quality, availability and palatability of its daily diet, the Smallholder Range of goat feeds has a feed suitable for your goats requirements.
  5. Fresh, clean drinking water should be provided at all times.
  6. Feed should be stored correctly to protect it from damp, contamination and vermin.
  7. If goats are being fed as a herd then care should be taken to ensure that the more timid individuals receive their fair share of the feed.
  8. A regular feeding regime should be established and each individual goat observed to check for signs of ill health.
  9. All changes to the diet should be made gradually to enable the population of rumen bacteria to adjust.
  10. All feed buckets and troughs should be kept clean as no goat will eat food or water that is contaminated with droppings.

Sheep Breeds - The Jacob in focus

Jacob SheepThe Jacob sheep takes its name from the story told in the Old Testament Book of Genesis of how Jacob became a selective breeder of pied sheep. Today, Jacobs are a popular breed of sheep in the UK, with their distinctive black and white colouring and attractive horns.

Jacobs are a hardy breed which winters out easily, have few disease problems and are relatively free of foot rot when compared with more commercial breeds. Jacob ewes are also very prolific, with lambing percentages around 190% easily achieved, this coupled with their good mothering qualities and ease of lambing mean that they are an ideal choice for the novice or first-time sheep breeder.

Although pure bred Jacob lambs are slower to mature than some commercial breeds, the meat is lean and tasty and often commands a premium price. When crossed with any of the terminal sire breeds, Jacob ewes produce lambs which are fast growing and ideal for the retail meat trade.

Jacobs yield a soft fleece of good quality demi-lustre wool, ideal for home spinning and knitting. Jacob skins make attractive rugs and mature ram horns are sought after by walking stick makers.

Further information on the breed can be gained by contacting the Jacob Sheep Society.

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